Day 15 The High Road

As I mentioned before it may seem like a have a fascination with the breakfast, it is just that so much care and effort is made in preparing it. Its morning was no exception. The Mediterranean fare plus some parties—a Nutella croissant and a slice of apple cake—and so many beverages—outlander juice, milk, tea and water. After I took it picture they continued to bring more food, two fried eggs and a bowl of fresh fruit. I never now if it is considerate to eat it all or if I look glutinous. I am going to be working hard today so I chose to and drink everything.

I was surrounded by locals biking to work or wherever as I bike out of town. The route my app has mapped stayed close to Shkodra Lake. The first part in Albania is a new road and some notes say that it is not finished and you may have to walk your bike a bit, but the road has been completed so was able to easily bike the entire Albanian sections. When crossing into Montenegro the road becomes one lane and climbs into the mountains with amazing views of the lake and far away mountains. Eventually, I am in the mountains enough that I am catching periodic glimpses of the lake but I am no longer close to the coast line.

The rest of the day is pretty much a series of climbs and descents. There was no single long climb but about for medium sized ones with a coupler smaller ones tossed in. Regardless, the day was hot and climbing was sweaty. I brought lots of water and was going through it. A little after half way the road comes down to the lake again and there is a small town along apparently is a big stop for tour buses. A Belgian woman come up to me from one of the bus tours and has questions about my bike and route. Always nice to talk to someone interested—what am I farms, just nice to talk to someone. I am myself al day. There was also a market in that town and I was able to buy some sugary fruit drink for a little energy.

I actually talked to quite a few people today, or at least said hello. This is a scenic route on a quiet country road—a favorite for cyclists. I saw a couple tours riding e-bikes. I spent about 15 minutes or so talking to three Germans (a woman and two men) in their twenties that were headed south to Greece. There were other hellos with cyclists from Italy, France and more Germans.

My route takes me from one of the Lake Shkodra to the opposite end and like I said the scenery was amazing. As I get to northern end of the lake the skies become very marshy and my guesthouse is situations on a mountain overlooking the river the comes out of the lake. It snakes it way though the area and is linked with these marshy areas and water plants. The guesthouse has a great view and the hostess shows me around and talks to me about dinner as she will fix it this evening. I just need to select something from the menu and hour before I want to eat.

I take some time to relax, then unpack and then check my bike out and do a little maintenance—check the tire pressure, oil the chain, etc. The owner says there is access to a mean on the river if your hike down 10 or 15 minutes. I could use a refreshing soak so the swimsuit comes on and I go hiking, and it truly a hike—much of it wooded. I just follow the signs—the first days “beach” the second says “close”.

The beach is a rocky flat entrance into the lake, but it is clear and there are no weeds under foot. I am a country boy and have swum in many a lake and pond so the setting is beautiful and I am fine with a river swim. We had a spring-heaping growing up and this reminds me of that. The smell of the cool refreshing water—not cold but cooler the deeper your feet go down. Most of the time I just hear the sounds of an untold number of birds. I do at a couple loons and others I can’t identify. A couple times the quiet is altered by a passing motor boat.

I find a nice big flat rock to sit on and dry in the sun for a few minutes before beginning the hike back o the guesthouse—and it truly is a hike as it is all uphill now. Back at the guesthouse I look at the menu and select the trout for dinner and say 7:30 is a good time. That way I will be sitting on the outside patio as the sun goes down. These country stays are nice as there is nothing to do but relax and enjoy the surroundings. No museums, churches, or other sites to see. Just relax.

I begin writing the blog and a say hello to another guest who is sitting on the patio. She and her husband are hear visiting from Normandy, France. I talk a little about my bike and trip and she tells me her and her husband run a guesthouse in Normandy, I get a card from her. Her husband come door and we chat about our trips so far. They are headed to Kotor tomorrow which is also my destination. My dinner has come. Two fried trout, potatoes, rice and a big salad. I am so lucky to have been able to travel to so many places and there is so much to appreciate about each one. Each day is always full of wonderful surprises and thoughtful people taking such care and pleasure in making each stay memorable. And I will definitely remember this outstanding first night in Montenegro.